What about Primordial Hydra and Master Biomancer

Primordial Hydra would bet a better option over Nimbus Swimmer certainly and I may put those in if I can spare some frunds from my main deck. The main point of this deck is an inexpensive deck that's capable of some massive attacks pretty quickly, and while Master Biomancer is an excellent card, I just don't see a real place for it that justifies the cost. (Besides, then I won't be able to call it 'Cheap Rares are Overpowered' anymore.)

Nice, I like the Biomass Mutation with Wild Beastmaster and Champion of Lambholt ! +1

Thanks! I discovered it quite randomly when I drew Biomass Mutation with a super-buffed Gyre Sage , and I built the deck around that from there.

I like it. This is a good casual deck to build off of bulk rares from prize packs :-)

Thanks. It'sreally entertaining to watch your oppenent's reaction when yousuddenly go from having one slightly large creature that might be dangerous if it were let through, to suddenly having three or four massive creatures which are then unblockable. And since the Champion of Lambholt doesn't actually have to attack it can be played at the absolute last second to try and avoid as much removal as possible.

I would recommend some more creatures with a power higher than 1 naturally, there isn't much to evolve off of.

Perhaps its worth replacing 2 Vorel's with 2 Mayor of Avabruck  ^Flip 's having 4 legendary's i find doesn't really work that well and everything exept Gyre Sage is human so he'd buff them and most importantly he's a cheap rare. XD

Of course, then I've got to do everything I can to try to keep it from flipping. Not a bad idea though, and I'll look into it. I do agree that it can be annoying to draw two or three of Vorel and then only be able to play one.

To be fair its good even when it flips starts building up tokens for you to use Biomass Mutation on. I was just trying to think of something that would fit with your theme tbh considering i think you only need 2 Vorel's.

You do have a point there. I'd forgotten about the token buildup, and that'd mean that I don't have to Biomass Mutation for quite as much because I'd be crashing through with more damage.

The tokens also make your creatures evolve.

So they do, though only once or twice before the creatures get higher than 3 power or toughness. Definitely a card I'll look into.

What would some ideal hands to keep look like? What cards would you want to make sure you started with?

Ideally, I'd start with 2 Forest , 1 Island , 1 Gyre Sage , 1 Vorel of the Hull Clade , 1 Champion of Lambholt , and 1 Increasing Savagery . I'd hope to draw a fourth land in the next couple turns.

Turn 1: Forest

Turn 2: Forest , Gyre Sage

Turn 3: Island , Vorel of the Hull Clade , evolve Gyre Sage

Turn 4: Land if you have it, if not, use Gyre Sage to allow for Increasing Savagery , cast on Gyre Sage

Turn 5: Forest , play Champion of Lambholt , flashback Increasing Savagery onto the Champion.

Turn 6: Vorel's ability doubles the counters on the champion and you swing for game.

There are actually better draws than this, I believe, as this seems slightly slow to be the fastest win in the deck, I just can't think of a better one off the top of my head. If you have thoughts on a better draw let me know.

Ideally you'd swing for game but you'd have to assume they have at least a little something out to block with. So I'd give it another few turns but you'd be even more built up by then. I really like your deck but I'm not sure how reliable it is. I'm gonna run some play tests.

@Skaolegur The Champion of Lambholt at this time would be a 21/21 and has the rules text "Creatures with power less than Champion of Lambholt 's power can't block creatures you control."

I doubt by turn 6 they would have a 22/X on the field to block.

In either case one Putrefy could handle it :-P. I still like the deck though.

Don't forget, because Champion of Lambholt is at that point a 20/20, they can't block unless they've been able to match my power buildup.

Incidentally, I'm actually running playtests of my own right now, trying to find the best draws.

So I'm finding that it's usually taking until about turn 7 to be able to win, but that the victory is usually a complete and total overrun with many 20+ creatures, thanks to Wild Beastmaster . What this means is that if I'm getting a creature-heavy draw, I can probably use some as throwaway blockers and keep myself in the game long enough to pull off the finishing attack.

@psychoza Indeed I hadn't considered. Although getting all of the cards out without having to mulligan could be a problem, and any form of board clear would put you out like psychoza had said.

This deck could run into issues with faster aggro decks. Especially RDW where they would easily burn off your starting creatures and then run you over. RDW is still viable!

Aggro decks would tend to be a problem for this, as it's a bit slower to finish the game. And early-game burn is always a problem if your creatures don't get big enough (Increasing Savagery ). Early removal/destruction is the obvious counter to what I've built but if they haven't got that then it'll be over pretty quickly.

Have you been playing this at your local tournament place?

Indeed, I am not knocking Roryrai's deck in anyway. Every deck has a weakness. I like the original thinking and while the deck may not ever see a Top 8 at a pro tour, he/she obviously likes it and that's what matters :).

I think if you want to speed up your deck, you can remove Fathom Mage and Forced Adaptation . Card you might want in place of this would be cloudfin raptor /Experiment One and Arbor Elf .

The Forced Adaptation definitely slows down your deck, but I disagree about Fathom Mage I feel it is necessary to keep the deck flowing sometimes, and provides great utility. I would put in more 1CMC like Psycho had suggested.

Alot of the Auras should be kept out of faster paced decks, for example after much play testing I removed Curse of Stalked Prey from my RDW. Don't get me wrong they DO help, they just do not have the synergy with the speed and reliability that you should be looking for as you fine tune your deck.

I'm really interested to see where you can take this. I'm even considering buying this/most of it to play for fun and build off of.